Craft Foam Tutorial ! :D
Sakizou Terra Branford cape - in total there were between 185-195 flowers on my cape; the flowers were 4 different sizes, made out of 5 different colors of organza, and had 2,000+ beads hand sewn onto them.
My Terra cape got a lot of compliments at Anime Boston and online, so I figured I’d post a sort-of tutorial about how I made all of the flowers. I’ve never written up a tutorial before, so I apologize if anything is unclear or repetitive. I hope this is helpful and good luck!
Organza flower tutorial:
Step 1: Make your patterns! I measured out circles of 2”, 3”, 4”, and 5” diameters and then I free handed the basic flower shape that I wanted onto card stock. You want to make your pattern piece on a sturdy material because you’ll be tracing it A LOT.
Step 2: Trace all your flowers onto your organza and cut them out. Each of my flowers had 3 layers of color and 1 top layer of white or ivory, so you need to trace/cut at least 3x as many flowers as you want in the end.
Step 3 & 4: After you’ve cut out your flowers, you can sort them into piles with however many layers you have chosen to use.
Step 5: I used a candle flame to burn the edges of my organza. You have to seal the edges with heat otherwise the fabric will fray. You can use heat to seal the edges of most synthetic fabrics.
Step 6: You’ll have to do each layer of the flower individually.
Step 7: I chose to start with the points between each petal to keep the basic shape of the flower intact. It WILL take some trial and error to figure out how close to the flame you can get without burning your organza TOO much. This distance can vary based on the type of candle you’re using (due to the size of the wick), so I’d recommend using the same candle for the whole process and practicing with some extra fabric before starting in on your flowers.
Step 8: After the middle points are done, burn the edges of the petals.
Step 9: For the very top layers of the flowers, I used the flame to gather the center of the layer to help it curve in and create a space to bead.
Step 10 & 11: Repeat steps 6-8 for all the other layers of the flower.
Step 12: Assemble your flower once all the layers have been burned. I used straight pins to hold each of my flowers together once I was done burning them.
Step 13: This process takes a while, especially if you’re making a lot of different colors and sizes.
Step 14: Secure all the layers together by sewing a bead into the center of each flower. I used glass pearls that I had left over from another costume, but you could use pretty much any kind of bead.
Step 15: I chose to use different colors and amounts of beads to help me differentiate between the sizes of my flowers.
Step 16: Have a place to store all your flowers once they’re complete (I used a medium sized cardboard box). I ended up using a strong glue to attach my flowers to my cape, but you could also hand sew them to your garment.
For those who are planning to start sewing their own cosplays this year this might be helpful: How to take measurements!
Waist Front / Waist Back:
How to Take Measurements:
Instructions for Taking Measurements:
So you’ve decided you want to become a Titan-killing machine?
Good! But first you must prove yourself by making an incredible amount of straps before joining the ranks! This little tutorial will show you how I made my Attack on Titan pleather straps. I personally wanted my straps to be rather sturdy and durable to make it more viable that these things could actually function as they would in the series. Also, you can of course apply this to straps and belts of the non-Shingeki variety.
Having troubles with facial angles in your drawing style?
The program is called Sculptris and is a free off-shoot program from Zbrush, that program that you keep hearing about but either takes selling your kidneys or piracy to actually use.
If you download it and sculpt out a facial model, you can have references for your own work for all of time. No more endlessly searching Google for reference materials or twisting/rotating/flipping a drawing to see if there are flaws. And you can easily edit it to create more facial types. This way, you can make character references for any and every face and facial angle that you can think of.
The program offers mirroring right from the start, so your faces will be perfectly symmetrical. You can turn off the symmetry for things like scars or otherwise.
It takes a little time. For instance, I downloaded the program on Christmas and, in my spare time, this took a few days of getting familiar with the program (first day) and then sculpting for a few minutes each day, mostly due to my perfectionist nature. And this one isn’t even done. I still have to mold the mouth, ears, and other smaller aspects before I consider it done. However, I was so giddy over the possibilities that I wanted to share this with my fellow artists.
From now on, I have reference for a face in my own style and will be able to create things so much easier in the future.
I hope that this helps you guys and that you have fun with it.
I absolutely recommend Sculptris!
This really useful oh my goodness. It takes a little figuring out, but once you get the hang of it it’s actually pretty easy. Just watch a couple youtube videos. Seeing how other people do it helps you to make sense of it.
OH BOY LOOK AT THIS HANDSOME IDIOT do you know how hard his stupid face is to figure out at different angles? DO YOU??? Now I have a 3D ref!!! AAAHH!! so excite much 3d wow very angles wow
In this part I’ll show you how to make the engine and the Anchor belt (I have no idea what that part is called lol.)
SO YOU WANNA MAKE SOME OF THESE CUTE LITTLE FRICKERS??
HERE IS A LIST OF MATERIALS YOU WILL NEED:
-Super Sculpey baking clay
-Sculpting tools of your choosing
-Sculpey glaze (in gloss AND satin)
-Acrylic paints (black, white, and as many other colors as you plan to use)
-Paint brushes (ranging from medium to very fine)
-Functioning oven + oven-safe pan or tray
-Super glue (a godsend for any little pieces that fall off after the clay has baked—it WILL happen)
Got your stuff? LET’S GET STARTED!
If you’ve never worked with Sculpey before, it should be noted that the clay will be hard to shape if it is cold. Knead it around in your hands for a bit and it should get nice and malleable. Roll out some simple circle shapes and squish them together for a three-sectioned grub body.
Gently press on a spherical head and little seed-shaped feet. Make your grubs as large or small as you like! Mine are about 3” long.
At this stage I like to pop them in the oven for a few minutes so the bases harden enough not to smoosh while I apply details like hair and horns. Follow the baking directions on the Super Sculpey box to determine how long you should bake yours based on the thickness of your clay. Don’t bake them all the way, however! They will still need to bake one more time. Just let them firm up a bit.
Once you’ve taken your grub bodies out of the oven and let them cool, start applying details! Layer the hair on one row at a time, and add the horns last.
Prepare to bake your grubs once more! This time, be careful how you arrange them in the tray—I place mine face-down to avoid squishing the hair or horns. Follow the baking instructions on the box once more to completely harden the sculptures.
Be sure to watch them closely so they don’t start burning! Even if they do burn a little, though, you will be able to cover the discoloration with paint.
I always feel so cruel during this part lmfao
Once they’re done and cooled, it’s time to paint!
I always paint from light to dark on sculptures. Paint the horns and gray skin, and let dry.
Next, paint the bodies! You can mix nearly any color you want if you have enough paints. Don’t worry about slopping color over areas that will later be covered by black. Let dry. (I use this stage to add the face paint for Makara grubs, and for Eridan grubs I use this stage to add the purple hair streak)
Now paint the hair and feet! Be very careful as you apply black paint, since it can be a little difficult to cover up if your hand slips. Let dry again!
Now, paint yellow circles for the base of the eyes (with the exception of Captors or grubs you decide to give glasses to, of course!). The circles will act as a guideline to help you outline the eye in black. Make sure the paint has dried before you continue.
Paint on eyelids and flat black pupils, as well as mouths and eyebrows with your smallest brushes. Oh god so much painting please send help
Lastly, add a splash of eye color and top it off with a white shine!
Let the grubs dry overnight, and then, for the finishing touch, coat them with Sculpey glaze. I like to coat the entire grub with Satin glaze first, let dry, and then add some Gloss glaze to their horns, eyes and feet to make them shiny! Let them dry overnight once more.
Now you’re done!! Give them to your friends as gifts, or hoard them all for yourself! After all, you only spent, like, 10,000 years on these. You are the mother grub. It is you.
So I posted this, the result of my stage makeup quiz today
and I saw that one of the notes was this:
And I thought, y’know, there might be a lot of cosplayers on tumblr who don’t know about this magic trick yet, and why shouldn’t they?
So I’m going to enlighten you through photos, as well as add links to places you can buy these supplies.
Here’s what I used.
- This right here is called crepe hair. It’s literally just a long clump of hair all twisted up conveniently so it doesn’t tangle together and become a pain. I got mine at a local costume shop, so I had the opportunity to compare it to my real hair before I bought it.
- This is Spirit Gum. This is the glue that will hold the hair in place. I have a .25oz (7ml) bottle and I think it’ll last for a very long time. I’ve done two mustaches, two good sized beards, and a Seneca Crane look with this little puppy already, and it’s still pretty much full.
So what you’re going to do, is you’re going to take this Spirit Gum and you’re going to put a bit of it (not even a lot, don’t cake it on) to the area where you would want your hair to go.
Then, you’re going to wait after it’s applied for a few seconds. This stuff is the stickiest when it’s almost dry - I think you’ll feel it on your face when it’s ready. It isn’t sticky when it’s fresh out of the bottle, you’ll need to air it out for fifteen to thrity seconds.
When the Spirit Gum is ready, you’re going to snip off a bit of your crepe hair. For the stubble look I used, I just needed the length of my pinkie nail.
Now apply it to your sticky face!
for the stubble, all I did was dab the hair on the stickiness.
You can do any length! If you want a long beard, just put a longer snip of crepe hair on your face. Make sure it dries so it sticks nicely!
- This is what you’re going to use to remove the Spirit Gum & crepe hair when you’re done. You’re going to use a cotton ball or a soft towel and gently and slowly wipe off all the gunk from your face. I can’t stress this enough. It will hurt for a long time if you don’t do this with great care, simply because the crepe hair is so rough and the Spirit Gum was so sticky.
Unfortunately, this stuff doesn’t last as long as the Spirit Gum itself. I’ve got a 1oz (29 ml) bottle and it’s already 25% gone.
The Spirit Gum Remover is not just for taking all of it off! I’ve found that using a pointed cue tip and dipping it in the Spirit Gum Remover can help with detail, so long as you do it gently and slowly just like if you were really removing it for good.
So if you wanted to do something cool and detailed, this technique comes in handy! Just be very careful, I got that red spot below my lip from removing Spirit Gum. It can really hurt if you don’t do it gently!
So have a great Halloween, guys! Hopefully this answered your question, too! :)